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Dalys: I, II, III, IV, V, VI, VII. (visos atvirlaiškių dalys viename įraše – čia)
Pastarąsias tris savaites praleidau su prie nugaros priaugusia didžiule kuprine ir šiaudine kepure ant galvos. Kartu su bičiule Giedre Darškute ėjome į Santiago de Compostelą. Kai grįžau iš visų pusių pasipylė prašymai papasakoti, kaip atrodo tas kelias, gyvenimas jame ir kaip mes jautėmės ten tolybėje. Visiems klausiantiesiems pažadėjau parašyti šį straipsnį.
Giedrė keliauja. Aušta
Kas yra Camino de Santiago?
„Buen Camino“ – kelio šūkis, kurį iš praeivių, piligrimų bei akimis palydinčių kaimų gyventojų išgirsti šimtą kartų per dieną. Žodis camino ispaniškai reiškia kelią. Kelias baigiasi Vakariniame Šiaurės Ispanijos pakraštyje – mieste, pavadinimu Santiago de Compostela. Šio miesto centre, gotikinės katedros kriptoje ilsisi sidabrinė skrynelė su šv. Jokūbo – vieno iš dvylikos Kristaus mokinių – palaikais.
Santiago de Compostelos katedros altorius
Viduramžiais buvo tikima, kad nuėjus šį kelią sulauksi atleidimo už nuodėmes. Dėl to juo eidavo įvairiausi žmonės – nusikaltėliai (pasakojama, kad kartais nusikaltėliui siūlydavo : arba mirties bausmė, arba kelias), karaliai ir didikai, persirengę paprastais keliautojais, šventieji. Per daugybę metų susiformavo ištisa infrastruktūra – buvo statomi vienuolynai, kuriuose keliautojus globojo vienuoliai, kaimų gyventojai pradėjo kurti prieglaudas, užeigas. Labai greit radosi ir plėšikų, kurie pelnydavosi iš piligrimų. Žinia, kur plėšikai ten ir keliautojus ginantys riteriai. Pamažu susiformavo keliai, pažymėti kriauklėmis, o vėliau geltonomis rodyklėmis, šimtus kilometrų vedantys į šventąjį miestą. Kiek jų yra? Kažkada girdėjau, kad apie penkiolika, nors vis atsiranda naujų atšakų. Ne visi keliautojai apsiriboja vien šiais keliais. Dvidešimt pirmame amžiuje vėl sugrįžo viduramžiška mada eiti ar važiuoti dviračiu į Santiagą iš savo namų. ( Turime ir vieną lietuvį, pasiekusį Santiagą iš Vilniaus).
Piligriminiai keliai į Santiagą Ispanijoje (pagal vieną iš žemėlapių)
Geltonosios rodyklės ženklinančios piligrimų kelius
Aš pati išbandžiau du iš šių kelių. Pernai ėjau 230 km portugalų keliu, vedančiu iš Pietų. Šiais metais įveikėme 460 km pačiu populiariausiu prancūzų keliu, menančiu daugiau kaip tūkstantį metų gyvos kelionių istorijos. Šiame straipsnyje detaliai neanalizuosiu istorinių detalių. Vis dėlto tiems, kurie ketina eiti keliu, žūtbūt rekomenduoju prieš einant pažinti užburiantį kelio istorijos pasaulį. Aš pati ruošiausi kelionei nardydama po dvi knygas: Algirdo Patacko „Galindiana“ bei Kristinos Stalnionytės „Kelias į Santjago de Kompostelą“. Ypač vertinga pirmoji iš jų, glaustai sudedanti visus svarbiausius akcentus: sudėtingą pagonybės ir krikščionybės santykį, riterystės bei vienuolystės dvasią, kuria kvėpuoja visas kelias.
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Dalys: I, II, III, IV, V, VI, VII. (visos atvirlaiškių dalys viename įraše – čia)
36 – paspausk ir pagirk!
NUOSTABU